Niacinamide is one of my favourite ingredients! I literally fell in love within days after incorporating it into my skincare routine, and the feeling only grew afterwards.
But what is this ingredient that I'm talking about, and if it's so good, why haven't you heard of it before? You probably might have, and you most probably have used some product that contains niacinamide! You'd be surprised to know that many products that claim to have brightening properties such as moisturizers, body lotions and face washes actually have a small percentage of niacinamide in them.
Let's jump right into understanding what this under-rated skincare ingredient is, and what are the benefits?
What is it?
Niacinamide or nicotinamide is basically a form of Vitamin B3, a complex Vitamin B structure. It is water soluble and comes in a white powdered form. It can be found naturally in meat, fish, wheat, certain vegetables and is also found in our skin in small amounts. The niacinamide used in cosmetics and skincare products are almost always sythetically derived.
Vitamin B3, also known as niacin, is required by our body for the formation of many co-enzymes. Niacinamide, a form of B3 similarly helps stimulate co-enzymes in our skin that in turn boost the production of fatty acids, ceramides, collagen, important skin preoteins etc.
Niacinamide is an extremely stable ingredient, and handles heat as well light exposure well. Additionally, it works very well with almost every active out there including retinols, AHA/BHAs, Vitamin C (we'll discuss more on this later), antioxidants etc.
Also, as niacinamide is hydrophilic, it works very well with ingredients you'd find in moisturizers such as glycerine, PCAs, Hyaluronic Acid etc.
What are the benefits?
1. Skin Lightening & Brightening - Niacinamide helps to lighten pigmentation on the skin by suppressing the movement of compounds called melanosomes which carry pigment from the lower layer of the skin to the outer layer of the skin. Studies have shown that niacinamide in concentrations between 2 - 5% can significantly help in lightening hyperpigmentation, dark spots and to an extent acne scars. However, this won't happen overnight and will take approx. 8 weeks or 2 months to see the difference.
I personally have seen one of my dark spots fade away, however, this took over 3 months! Skincare takes time and patience.
2. Skin Restoring - Niacinamide has been proven to help the synthesis of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides, all of which are extremely important in keeping your skin together, (skin barrier). A stronger skin barrier means healthier and stronger skin that can help keep the skin hydrated and reduce trans-epidermal water loss. And the best part - small concentrations of evwn 2% is enough to show these benefits!
This is especially good for those with dry skin, as dry skin types typically have lower levels of ceramide in their skin. Increased levels of ceramides in conjuction with niacinamide's ability to keep moisture locked in can help those with dry skin.
3. Pore Minimizing - One of the reasons niacinamide is gaining a lot of popularity today is due to its pore minimizing properties. The exact science behind how this happens is a little vague, however the understanding is that niacinamide has a normalizing effect on the pore lining which in turn keeps away oil, dust and sweat from clogging the pores. Pores stretch to accomodate the debris that clogs your pores, making it more visible, but when you eliminate the clog, you'd automatically reduce the visibility of the pore as it returns to its normal size.
4. Sebum Production & Anti-Acne - Niacinamide can potentially help those with acne, while it isn't the best way to treat acne, it definitely will help. One study showed that at a concentration of 2%, niacinamide was able to reduce the rate at which sebum is produced in one group of people and another study showed that a concentration of 4% niacinamide showed some improvement with regards to acne in 82% of the sample.
As niacinamide reduces sebum production, there is less oil to clog your pores and its anti-bacterial properties helps rid your skin of acne causing bacteria, together working to reduce acne.
5. Anti-Aging - Niacinamide helps stimulate the co-enzymes, which in turn boost production of collagen and other key proteins needed by the skin. This in addition to its ability to stimulate the production of fatty acids and ceramides, leave your skin firmer, with a better skin structure and fewer fine lines and wrinkles. You'd be surprised to hear that many of the popular anti-aging products available in the market today contain niacinamide.
Do keep in mind that best results are witnessed at concentrations of 4 - 5% and needs to be used for atleast 8 - 12 weeks.
6. Others - As though the above benefits were not enough, niacinamide is also known to increase epidermal cell growth, help with healing wounds, can smoothen the texture of skin, is anti-bacterial, has photo protective abilities and is anti-inflammatory.
Points to keep in mind
1. With Vitamin C - Outdated studies showed that niacinamide and vitamin C did not pair very well, and would result in the formation of niacin which could cause redness and irritate the skin. However, the study used extremely unstable forms of both of these ingredients, and were subjected to heat levels that are nowhere close to what it would be subjected to during your skincare routine, or even during manufacturing and transport.
However, there is one aspect to keep in mind, pure Vitamic C - Ascorbic Acid - works at an acidic pH while niacinamide works best at a neutral pH, and when applied one after the other have the slightest possibility of irritating your skin. This holds for only ascorbic acid which is oil based and not any other derivates which are water soluble.
2. Pore Size - The size of your pores are defined by genetics and cannot change. Do not believe anyone who tells you that pores can open and tighten. The urban legend is that steam opens your pores and cold water closes it could not be more wrong. Hot water and steam loosen the debris inside your pores and make it easier to extract, and when you feel cold you get goosebumps right, similarly when you apply cold water the skin and pores / follicles temporarily contract.
Niacinamide will soothe out your skin, and normalize your pores, meaning the pores would go back to its natural size and form. Also, since it is anti-inflammatory and soothes the pore lining, your pores will be less defined and visible.
3. Always Patch Test - Niacinamide has been found to be safe, and is prescribed for those with rosacea and eczema prone skin, as well as those with sensitive and very sensitive skin. However, some people might react, so always patch test before use.
My favourite niacinamide product - The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum
Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist. The overview of the ingredient has been sourced from multiple reputable websites that provide well researched and latest information on ingredients commonly used in skincare and make-up. Wherever specific facts and figures are mentioned, these have been sourced from published Journals, Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary or INCI Decoder, and Journal sources listed on these websites. Wherever, information has been taken from the source, the references will be listed as well.
I neither take credit for this information, nor can I guarantee the accuracy of these facts and figures and do not take responsibility for the same.
My main aim of the ‘What’s on the label’ segment is to help people understand what the ingredients in their skincare or make-up routines are, and more specifically how these ingredients can deliver benefits to our skin. If I have made any error or mistake, please do let me know, and we can work together to make the necessary changes.
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