Anyone who has ever spoken to me knows that I recommend almost everyone to give Vitamin C a shot.
I love Vitamin C, and while sometimes the effects and results are not visible in the short term, I truly believe that as I age the benefit of religiously applying Vitamin C is definitely going to show.
There is a lot of research and studies backing the claims of Vitamin C, and if any ingredient deserved a post all for itself, it definitely would be Vit C.
While there are many aspects to Vit C, many derivates that are available - each of which have their own pros and cons - I will try to keep this post as brief as possible and highlight only the important points to keep in mind. If you are interested in learning and understanding more, I have linked many studies as well as articles that you can refer to below.
What is it?
Vitamin C (Vit C) is an essential vitamin required by the body to function properly, and infact the deficiency of Vit C in the body causes scurvy. Interestingly, Vit C is found abundantly in our skin, and is essential in the synthesis of collagen, protects the skin from free radical damage / oxidative stress and other environmental stressors.
Vitamin C is essential in your diet as well, and for our body acts as an antioxidant and plays an important role in improving the immune system. However, consuming a lot of Vitamin C does not mean it will end up on your skin - your body will take what it needs, and will get rid of what it believes is the excess.
So how does one get Vitamin C to their skin - slather it on yourself!
Vitamin C and a majority of its derivatives are water-soluble, and Ascorbic Acid (AA), the pure form of Vit C, is extremely unstable and gets oxidized very quickly. If you are looking for AA (or L-AA - they are the same) product, do ensure that they are either in water-free solutions, or are in products with pH below 3.5.
As AA is water-soluble, and our skin naturally is oil loving, there are a lot of questions regarding the penetration ability of Vit C into our skin. Studies have shown that concentrations of 20% witness the maximum absorption into our skin (more than that and your skin might not absorb it, and you might cause skin irritation). While some studies have shown that concentrations even as low 0.3% can work, the benefits you would see would be vastly different.
Research shows that low concentration - 5 to 10% - are not as potent, but you can witness benefits over a longer period of time - approx. 6 months (depending on usage and skin type).
Concentrations between 10 - 15% are particularly good as spot treatments and can provide all the benefits Vit C is well known for, and takes shorter time - approx. 3 - 4 months.
Higher concentrations 15 - 20% and above have been shown to be the most beneficial and you can expect to see quicker results.
As mentioned earlier, AA is extremely unstable, and to deal with this issue manufacturers and cosmeceutical companies have come up with various forms of Vit C. While some of them do have research backing them, many aspects are still unclear regarding the efficacy of these other forms. I would always recommend going for AA, but certain skin types (especially rosacea prone skin) could find AA harsh or sensitizing, and opting for more stable and gentle versions of AA are preferable. Some of the common forms, that do have some research backing and have proven to be similar to AA (in terms of benefits) are - Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate, etc.
What are the benefits?
1. Antioxidant - Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant, and can help reduce free radicals in your skin. This in effect helps reduce wrinkles, fine lines and other signs of aging, while simultaneously protecting your skin from further damage.
2. Collagen Boosting - Vitamin C is essential for the body to produce collagen, and when it is directly applied to the skin it helps in boosting collagen production in the skin. Both Vit C as well as collagen production in our skin decreases as we age, topical application can help boost collagen production thus keeping our skin looking young.
3. Protecting from UV damage - Vitamin C, acting as a strong antioxidant can help protect the skin from UV damage, and studies have even shown that topical application of Vit C have shown a decrease in tumor cells.
4. Reduce pigmentation - Vitamin C have the ability to reduce the production of melanin by affecting the enzyme that triggers the production of melanin - tyrosinase. What this means for us is brighter skin, even skin tone and a reduction in pigmentation - all types, sun spots, age spots, acne marks (PIH) etc.
Points to keep in mind
1. Stability - Vit C is unstable when exposed to sunlight, water and air - even if the packaging says it is not. Vit C will over time oxidize, some quicker than other - but they all will. The best way is to deal with this issue is use up as much product as you can as quickly as possible. Also, storage is extremely important - ensure you keep your Vit C product away from sunlight and the product is sealed as soon as it is used. Choose Vit C products that come in tinted or opaque packaging and preferably with a pump dispenser. I have personally seen many Vit C products that come with an additional lid to completely seal in the product and reduce exposure to air. Avoid moisturizers, especially those that come in open jars / tubs.
2. Layering - There have been many contradicting studies and opinions you can find online, but Vitamin C can be paired with almost everything. There are some studies showing that pairing Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide might cause sensitivity (I've tried it - it made my skin tingle - do not mess around with this), but pairing the other forms of Vit C with Niacinamide is safe.
Another contention is around pairing AHAs / BHAs with Vit C - there is a lot of drama about this online - but my opinion is slightly different. Both Vit C (especially AA) and AHAs / BHAs are exfoliating in nature, pairing the two can lead to over exfoliation and can sensitize the skin. For me personally, the two work decently for my skin and I do pair them, but always patch test the combination before going ahead and be extremely careful if you have sensitive skin.
3. Skin Sensitivity - Vit C doesn't penetrate well into the skin, to enhance the penetration ability brands either use low ph (<4) or use higher concentrations, and even both - which are the perfect recipes for skin sensitivity. If you have sensitive skin do try the gentler forms of Vit C before jumping into AA, also it would be a good idea to start with lower concentrations and slowly move up to see whether your skin can tolerate it.
Just to sum it up and make it simple:
- Prefer water-free formulations
- Keep away from sunlight and limit exposure to air
- Avoid tub / jar packaging
- Choose pump dispensers or tubes
- Sensitive skin types should start with lower concentrations and gradually test if their skin is able to tolerate higher concentrations
- Avoid pairing AA with Niacinamide (other forms of Vit C are okay)
- Test if AHAs / BHAs along with Vit C will work for your skin
- Always Patch Test
Vitamin C Products Reviewed:
Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist. The overview of the ingredient has been sourced from multiple reputable websites that provide well researched and latest information on ingredients commonly used in skincare and make-up. Wherever specific facts and figures are mentioned, these have been sourced from published Journals, Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary or INCI Decoder, and Journal sources listed on these websites. Wherever, information has been taken from the source, the references will be listed as well.
I neither take credit for this information, nor can I guarantee the accuracy of these facts and figures and do not take responsibility for the same.
My main aim of the ‘What’s on the Label’ segment is to help people understand what the ingredients in their skincare or make-up routines are, and more specifically how these ingredients can deliver benefits to our skin. If I have made any error or mistake, please do let me know, and we can work together to make the necessary changes.
References:
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