Toners - Bleh - waste of money and simply adding a step into an already over complicated skincare routine - who needs them?
That was me - until I found the product we are reviewing today.
I had just discovered about AHAs, and I really wanted to incorporate it into my routine, and in the process stumbled across the Pixi Beauty - Skintreats | Glow Tonic, a product that seems to have almost no negative reviews. This product is one of Pixi Beauty’s bestsellers, has brought home multiple awards, made Pixi known over the globe and in a sense got the consumers to truly understand more about skincare. Yet, I was a little skeptical (because nothing can be this good right?) and after stalling for a couple of months, I placed an order from their international website, and less than 2 weeks later I was drooling all over this.
Pixi Beauty has both skincare and make-up lines, and has six collections under the ‘Skintreats’ line – Glow Tonic, Retinol, Collagen, Vitamin-C, Hydrating Milky and Rose Infused – each of which champion a key active like glycolic acid, retinols, hyaluronic acid, etc. Also, each line incorporates natural ingredients such as aloe vera, rose, oats etc., to help balance the skin.
With that let us jump right into why this toner has been and continues to be a cult classic and has even laid the foundation for having AHAs incorporated into our skincare routines.
* Suitable for all skin types, will work best and show maximum results for the above highlighted skin types and skin conditions
Pixi Beauty was launched in India in August 2019 and is currently available only in Sephora (both online and in stores)
The toner retails for INR 1,480 for a 100 ml bottle (in Sephora).
I purchased the product through their online international website, and picked up the 250 ml bottle for GBP 18 + Shipping + Taxes, which works out to be approx. INR 2,235 (Still cheaper than buying at Sephora – 250 ml would work out to be INR 3,700).
You can also buy this at lookfantastic.in (INR 1,674 – you might have to pay customs though) or Cult Beauty UK (GBP 18).
Pixi Beauty
Pixi Beauty was launched in the UK in 1999, by Petra Strand, a make-up artist, who was looking for products that create a naturally radiant look and is fuss free.
Pixi Beauty’s mission over the years have remained the same – To make women look like themselves, only better – products for women who are on the go, and do not have the time to relax at a spa or invest in a time consuming skincare routine. All their products truly are about multi-tasking, infused with botanicals and beneficial ingredients that are ‘flaw-fixing’ and ‘youth-enhancing’.
The beauty of this brand is that, though Pixi Beauty products were mostly designed for women on the go, their products have reached across markets with women across all age groups, from teenagers to grandmother, using their products.
Another aspect Petra wanted her brand to have, was to be accessible and affordable to all. In the UK, European countries and the US, Pixi Beauty is considered to be a drugstore skincare / make-up brand, however, in India the prices are not exactly affordable – and is marketed only in Sephora (considered to be a luxury brand).
Pixi Beauty is cruelty free and ensure their suppliers do not test any of their ingredients on animals.
What's in my product?
Ingredients: Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Glycerine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana) Water, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Hexylene Glycol, Fructose, Glucose, Sucrose, Urea, Dextrin, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Hexyl Nicotinate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerine, Di Sodium EDTA, Biotin, Panthenol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum/Fragrance, Caramel, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool, CI 14700
Green - Yay!! Blue - Good/Fair Orange - Bleh! Red - Nope!
An ingredient list that has more ingredients marked red than both green and blue put together, is not a good sign – but this does get 4.5 / 5, wondering why that is? Well, read on -
1. Glycolic Acid
An ingredient I have fallen head over heels for - Glycolic Acid - an Alpha-Hydroxy Acid or AHA that is low in molecular weight, hence will penetrate the layers of skin and help to gently slough off the layer of dead skin. This in turn helps the actives in the next step of your skincare routine reach your skin faster and help it work its wonders.
Glycolic acid is also known to help boost collagen production, increase the thickness of the skin and help the renewal of skin cells – all in all an ingredient you want in your skincare routine. I have spoken more on how this works in an earlier blog, and you can access it here.
Before moving on to the next ingredient, it is imperative that I reiterate that Glycolic Acid when used incorrectly can cause more harm than good, and please do keep these points in mind –
ALWAYS use a sunscreen if you’re using Glycolic Acid
You do not need to exfoliate your skin daily – the Pixi Beauty Glow Tonic is a mild exfoliant so using it at night daily might be okay, but is not necessary
Always see how your skin is reacting, every skin type is unique, and no two people will react to the product the same way
Be aware of key actives if you like layering. It might be better to avoid Vitamin C with Glycolic Acid - Read here for more on this
Those with extremely sensitive skin types might want to skip AHAs and choose BHAs or PHAs which are gentler on the skin
2. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Aloe Vera, the plant that keeps on giving. Power packed with salicylates, vitamins, minerals and let’s not forget the water and hydration, this is a product which can soothe and calm skin, while the salicylates work on getting rid of any acne / pimple causing bacteria on the skin.
For more information on all the wonders aloe vera can deliver to your skin, read the in-depth ingredient breakdown from our ‘What’s on the Label’ segment here.
3. Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Ginseng or better known as the red ginseng is considered to be a miracle cure in most South East Asian countries and is included in a variety of traditional dishes for the medicinal properties it is said to have.
But consuming ginseng and applying it on your skin are two different things. Let us try to understand how ginseng delivers its benefits to our skin.
How it works?
The ginseng root extracts contain biologically active components called ginseng saponins or ginsenoside, which have been known to have potent antioxidant properties. We have spoken in the past how antioxidants help with reducing free radical damage to the skin, and ginseng being a powerful antioxidant can help reduce the signs of aging, sun damage, and other free radical damage on the skin
Research has shown that topical application of ginseng root boosts skin hydration, diminishes rough texture, helps fade uneven skin tone and visibly reduce wrinkles. It does this by improving the blood circulation which in turn enhances the skin’s nutrition and its metabolism
Ginseng is known to be a good source of Vitamin B for the skin
How safe is it?
Ginseng has seen very limited cases of skin irritation, however, always patch test. Additionally, another factor to be kept in mind with regards to the ginseng root extract is that like most other extracts, the extraction process requires the use of high concentrations of ethanol (denatured alcohol). However, post extraction alcohol evapourates and usually accounts for only < 1%.
4. Skin Sensitizing Agents – Parfum/Fragrances, Fragrances & Dye
One of the key issues with this product and the reason why I’m not giving this a 5 / 5 rating, is the presence of perfume, added fragrances and a colourant.
The claim is that the Glow Tonic gets its reddish colour from the ginseng, however, the product contains a red colourant, which can potentially sensitize the skin. This product also includes Caramel, which doesn’t necessarily add any benefit for the skin but can add a brownish colour to a product. I don’t mind brands adding natural colourants which are non-sensitizing like caramel, however, as someone with slightly sensitive skin, I would prefer not having artificial colours in any of my products.
Generally all fragrances are clubbed together under the ‘Parfum / Fragrances’ title, however, some fragrances such as Hydroxycitronellal, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Citral and Benzyl Benzoate fall under the ‘EU 26 Fragrances’ that need to be listed as they are sensitizing to the skin. All these sensitizing fragrances are in this toner.
Certain fragrances like Geraniol and Linalool are components of Witch Hazel and could have come into the formulation due to the presence of Witch Hazel and might not have been added separately.
Overall, however, I think there has been an unnecessary amount of fragrances added into this formulation.
For those with sensitive skin, I would recommend getting a sample size product and using it for a week before buying the full-size bottle. The formulation is extremely hydrating so there isn’t much to worry about, but as always ‘Better Safe than Sorry’.
Others:
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana) Water is known for its strong astringent, skin protecting, skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. All this in addition to the high content of tannins make it a strong antioxidant as well. Witch Hazel Water is one of the safest and non-sensitizing derivatives of Witch Hazel and is a boon to sensitive skin as well as oily and acne-prone skin. This can be sensitizing giving the high amounts of tannin in it, and you should always do a patch test before using a product with Witch Hazel.
Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract is well known for its ability to help with blood circulation and strengthen capillaries and is used to help those with varicose veins. Horse chestnut applied topically has been known to be one of the strongest antioxidants available, and is even claimed to be more effective than Vitamin E. Horse chestnut is also known to be very helpful for sensitive skin and even rosacea prone skin, and in fact might help alleviate the condition.
Panthenol, or better known as pro-vitamin B5, is well known for acting as a humectant and helps nourish and moisturize the skin, while also strengthening the skin barrier. I have spoken in depth about panthenol in the previous blog – you can access it here.
Fructose, Glucose and Sucrose are natural sugars that are present in every living thing around us. When this is applied to our skin, it acts as a water binding agent and helps in keeping our skin hydrated and moisturized. Urea makes up about 7% of our Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and has mild exfoliating and strong moisturizing properties, that can help keep our skin well moisturized.
Biotin, an ingredient that we have all heard will help our hair and nails grow faster, longer and stronger and is taken as supplements. Many brands (especially with hair products) include Biotin in their products and market it stating that it will help with keeping the hair really soft and shiny. Biotin might slightly (like the teeniest tiniest bit) help with moisturizing your skin but there is absolutely no proof that this does anything for our skin. It cannot be absorbed into the body through the skin or hair either. If you see Biotin on a product’s ingredient list, know that it is just a marketing gimmick. Biotin in this formulation might be functional, or added as a moisturizer, or maybe to make the ingredient list look nice – but I highly doubt it serves any benefit for your skin.
My thoughts on the product
I am in love with this product, and now whenever I see or even hear the words ‘Glycolic Acid’ my ears prick up and the product is either in my shopping basket or my wishlist. So let us break this down into packaging, touch & feel, how to use, changes within a week, and changes within a month.
1. Packaging
The product does not have any outer
packaging and comes in a solid plastic bottle. All of Pixi Beauty’s products come in pastel colours with pastel green usually being the label colour and different colour schemes for the various collections. The Pixi Beauty Glow Tonic comes in a reddish brown (with a touch of orange as well) bottle and a pastel green label and bottle cap.
The bottle comes with a plastic stopper to control the amount of product that comes out but is not very effective as I have dropped quite a bit over time. I would think a pump dispenser would work better.
The labelling is quite clean and neat, and there is no overload of data. The front of the bottle mentions the product name, “5% Glycolic Acid” & “Exfoliating Toner” and the weight of the product. The back mentions what it is, how to use it and the ingredient list. The sides of the bottle in fine print gives out some precautions that need to be followed while using the product.
2. Touch & Feel
Like most toners, this is a liquid formulation.
It is predominantly transparent, with the slightest touch of brown or red - you can only see the colour when you apply it on a cotton pad.
It obviously has a fragrance, after all, there are 10 added fragrances. The fragrance isn’t very strong, and it is quite difficult to put a finger on what it smells like - Cucumbers, floral and fresh - is what comes to mind. It doesn’t last very long though and by the time you’re applying your serum or moisturizer, the smell dissipates.
A few drops on a cotton pad is more than enough to cover your face and neck and spreads well.
On application, it definitely feels like there is a layer on top of your skin, yet at the same time feels light and airy - I am assuming it’s the wonderful combination of a number of moisturizing ingredients and Witch Hazel’s astringent properties that give this feeling.
When I initially started using this product, I did have this slight tingling sensation which would subside in a minute or two. After about 3 - 4 days the tingling sensation stopped altogether.
It takes a little time for your skin to adjust to most AHAs and BHAs and even retinoids - these need to be incorporated carefully into your skincare routine after judging how your skin is reacting. Glycolic acid in milder formulations can cause slight tingling, but if it doesn’t stop after a few minutes, or continues to tingle even after a week of application, it might not suit you.
Also, Glycolic acid in some cases might cause something called Skin Purging – this is NOT a medical term, just some fancy name someone decided to use – where a product can increase the cell turnover of your skin and all impurities hidden underneath layers of your skin appear (just imagine a fast-forward scenario of your breakout cycles). This usually shows up as tiny little bumps on your skin, or for those with acne prone skin as pimples or breakouts. It should only happen in areas where you regularly get breakouts, and not new regions – for eg., I get pimples predominantly on my nose, forehead, sides of my face and sometimes on my jawline. If I am seeing breakouts on my cheeks (I have never in my life had any breakouts there) that means my skin is most probably reacting to the product, but if I were to have breakouts on my jawline or nose, it could be “skin purging”. These usually last for one skin turnover cycle, which is about a month but can last slightly longer as well.
3. How-to-Use
The general rule of thumb while using any skincare product is to go from thinnest to thickest in terms of consistence
The directions on the packaging recommends, “Use AM & PM or as needed. After cleansing, apply with a cotton pad, avoiding eye area.”
As this product is formulated with a low concentration of Glycolic Acid, the brand has suggested using it day and night. Glycolic acids, like all other AHAs can sensitize the skin when exposed to UVA & UVB rays. It is recommended to use these in the night only.
I use this as a part of my night time routine as it can help exfoliate my skin, and when followed with other key actives, can help give the best possible results for the skin. When I started using this toner, I used it daily and suited my skin type, however, there is no necessity for you to exfoliate your skin on a daily basis. Now I apply it on alternate nights (I do not overlap with Vitamin C). Also, I think it would be good to keep in mind to not use this if you have used an exfoliating peel or scrub earlier in the day - you do not want to over exfoliate your face.
4. After One Week
I have normal to combination skin (oily T-Zone), my skin doesn't breakout very often, but I do get very painful deep-seated pimples during my time of the month. My skin concerns are mostly unevenness of skin tone, dark spots/moles on my face - I lost count of how many of those I have, whiteheads on the nose, appearance of fine lines on my forehead and around my eyes, and a small degree of sensitivity.
It took me exactly three nights to first start seeing the difference in my skin (day 4 morning) - My skin was starting to clear up. Back then I was pairing this with a Hyaluronic Acid serum and a nice creamy ceramide moisturizer (it was winter) and my skin had never looked as nourished and happy as it did then.
5. On using the product for over a month
I have been using the Glow tonic for roughly 5 months now, and though how I use it has changed over time, yet, the results I have been seeing are consistent.
Positives:
I have slight pigmentation under my lip and the skin around my chin used to be dull and slightly darker. I’ve seen a reduction in the pigmentation now, and my skin is even toned.
Over time, my skin has almost stopped breaking out – I do get a pimple of two either on my nose or on the side of my face, but I haven’t had a painful and ugly pimple since I’ve started using this.
In conjunction to Vitamin C, Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid, I feel this toner has helped to reduce the fine lines around on my forehead
Keeps the skin hydrated and moisturized – there were times I was contemplating using a moisturizer after this
For the lack of better words, my skin does ‘Glow’, and I don’t feel I need to use a concealer as much as I used to before. In fact, I’ve even reduced the amount of foundation and use just a little to give myself an even tone (for dark circles especially)
After using the Glow Tonic for nearly 6 months, I can vouch that this toner does really help clear the skin, reduce pigmentation and dark spots, and evens out skin tone.
There were a few weeks in between when I didn’t use it (as I was trying out the Vitamin C serum for the previous blog) and after about 1.5 - 2 weeks later my skin did seem to be slightly dull as compared to when I used it every other day - And when I re-introduced it, my skin cleared up again.
The only negative point for me would be the insane number of fragrances and dye that has been used in this product. This might cause irritation in case you have sensitive skin or have an allergy to any of these ingredients, however, the formula contains enough anti-inflammation and skin soothing ingredients that it ideally shouldn’t be an issue.
Final Thoughts
There is a reason this product sells out super quickly, has won the ‘2017 teenVOGUE Acne Awards’, and is vouched by millions of customers across the globe – that’s because the Glow Tonic delivers!
Honestly, for me this is a 5/5 product, but I had to take away half a star because this contains waaay too many skin sensitizing ingredients, and can potentially cause breakouts.
Overall Rating: 4.5 / 5
I would recommend this for all skin types - but would be best suited for oily skin, acne prone skin and even mature skin.
This product is mild and gentle enough for sensitive skin as well, however, do check if you have had a reaction to any of the ingredients on the list. It might be better to look at BHAs for your exfoliating needs instead, and in case you have very sensitive skin, PHAs might be better suited for you.
Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist. The product review is my personal opinion on the product, and what I understand from articles available online. The overview on ingredients has been sourced from websites that specifically look to provide information on commonly used ingredients in skincare and make-up.
Wherever I have mentioned a specific fact or figure, these have been sourced from published Journals, Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary or INCI Decoder, and Journal sources listed on these websites. Information gathered from specific websites will be referenced as well.
I neither take credit for this information, nor can I guarantee the accuracy of these facts and figures and do not take responsibility for the same.
My main aim is to help people understand the various ingredients in their skincare and how those ingredients work, to help make intelligent purchase decisions with regards to skincare. If I have made any error or mistake, please do let me know, and we can work together to make the necessary changes.
#pixibeauty #pixibypetra #pixiglow # pixiglowtonic #glycolicacid
References:
Glycolic Acid - https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3875240/ & https://www.fda.gov/media/101373/download
Horse Chestnut - https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18503457
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