Exfoliation is a key aspect of keeping your skin looking healthy and young, and in-fact your skin naturally gets rid of the dead skin cells every month or so. Like most things, this process slows down as we start to age leading to the skin looking dull, wrinkles seem to be deeper and the skin seems to age.
The best way to tackle this is by exfoliating your skin regularly (atleast once a week). There are two ways to go about exfoliating your skin – physical and chemical.
Physical exfoliation deals with using either a device or products that contain granules that can scrub away the top layer of your skin.
Chemical exfoliants work by loosening the bonds that hold the dead skin cells together and remove the top layer of skin. An added benefit of some chemical exfoliants is that they have the ability to improve the skin turnover rate (the rate at which skin sheds) and boosts collagen production, which helps in making the skin look youthful again.
Last year, when I introduced my skin to the Pixi Glow Tonic, which contains Glycolic Acid (an Alpha-Hydroxy Acid), my skin thanked me by looking its absolute best. As my skin had gotten used to Glycolic Acid, I wanted to see if my skin would be able to tolerate higher concentrations, and that’s when I came across the product I’m reviewing today – The Ordinary – AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
There is a LOT of hype around this product, and there is no dearth of videos available online about it, and the way it has supposedly changed people’s skin, reduced acne and helped reduce acne marks. While I do not have acne (or acne marks), I do have some pigmentation and I really wanted to see what a good exfoliation could do for my skin.
The Ordinary products are not available in retail stores in India, however, these can be purchased online either through their platform, online aggregators like Cult Beauty, Lookfantastic etc., as well as many Instagram resellers.
On the Deciem website, the serum retails for $9 for a 30ml bottle.
I picked this up from Cult Beauty UK, where it currently retails for £6.30 – I picked this up on discount, effectively for £4.20, which came up to approx. INR 400 + Customs (You never know when you’d end up paying Customs. I paid approx. INR 205, the overall cost coming up to INR 605)
The Ordinary – The Abnormal Beauty Company
DECIEM, the parent firm of the skincare brand The Ordinary, and nine other brands, launched in 2013. They call themselves "The Abnormal Beauty Company" as they set themselves to clean and ethical principles and are breaking most of the existing norms in the beauty industry.
With the motto, "Clinical formulations with integrity", the brand focuses on developing products that hero the key active ingredients, with simple clinical formulations, and without adding a plethora of other ingredients. And here's the kicker - majority of their products are affordable ($5 to approx. $35) which is approx. INR 370 to about INR 2,600. You might say that is quite a pretty penny, and not exactly affordable, however, we need to keep in mind that you're getting the necessary key active ingredients (best suited for your skin needs) in good formulations and without unnecessary additives.
All DECIEM products, across all their brands including The Ordinary, are free of sulphates, parabens, mineral oil, methylchloroisothiazolinone & methylisothiazolinone (preservatives that have been known to sensitize the skin), animal oils, coal tar dyes, formaldehyde (preservative), mercury, and oxybenzone (chemical sunscreen active).
Also, DECIEM is vegan and does not test on animals, and do not support any affiliates who would.
What’s in my product?
Ingredients: Glycolic Acid, Aqua (Water), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit / Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerine, 1 ,2 Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
Green - Yay!! Blue - Good/Fair Orange - Bleh! Red - Nope!
I expected the product to have over 30 – 40 ingredients and was pleasantly surprised when I saw this ingredient list. The product obviously has a cocktail of AHAs and Salicylic Acid (BHA), but also do have some potent antioxidants, hydrating and occlusive ingredients. Most of the other ingredients, highlighted in grey, are gentle and kind to the skin stabilizers and preservatives.
With that let’s jump right into the ingredients in this product -
1. Glycolic Acid
If you’ve been following me for a while, you’d know that I love Glycolic Acid. If I see a product with Glycolic Acid, I stupidly assume that it’s going to be a great product and purchase it without thinking twice.
Glycolic Acid is an AHA, or Alpha Hydroxy Acid, that is a chemical exfoliant and works to loosen the bonds between the dead skin cells and lift them away, leaving you with younger and brighter looking skin. It has helps boost collagen production. If you want to learn more about this absolute favourite ingredient of mine, I have previously spoken about it in the “What’s on the Label – Glycolic Acid” blog.
Make sure you always use Glycolic Acid products at night and follow up with sunscreen the next morning.
2. Aloe Barbadenis Leaf Water
The plant of immortality, that has been used for centuries now and is truly a gem of an ingredient. Constituted with 99% water, you’d be surprised to see the punch that the remaining 1% packs.
Aloe Vera houses Vitamins, Minerals, Sugars, Salicylates, Amino Acids and other enzymes that are absolutely amazing.
I have spoken in depth about all the goodness of Aloe Vera in my “What’s on the Label – Aloe Vera” blog.
3. Salicylic Acid
If you have acne prone skin, you must have heard of Salicylic Acid. Salicylic Acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) and is lipophilic, which means this is can easily get absorbed into your skin. Just like AHAs, Salicylic Acid is a chemical exfoliant too, however, with the added benefit of being able to penetrate into your pores and get rid of the oil / sebum as well as the dead skin cells that might be clogging your pores.
Apart from being an effective and gentle chemical exfoliant, the chemical structure of Salicylic Acid is similar to aspirin and has anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, like AHAs, Salicylic Acid also works to reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles, improve the skin’s firmness and texture, improve skin tone and has hydrating properties. All-in-all it’s a wonderful ingredient to for those with normal to oily, bumpy, and congested skin and is even suitable for milia prone skin.
Salicylic Acid can be suitable for sensitive skin as well and is in fact recommended for those who cannot tolerate AHAs.
Unlike AHAs, Salicylic Acid does not increase the skin’s sun sensitivity, and in fact has some sun protective abilities. This however does not mean you skip your sunscreen.
While Salicylic Acid might not increase sun sensitivity, it still remains to be an effective and efficient exfoliant, which means the new skin would be exposed to sunlight. I would recommend using it at night (with the exception of spot treatments or prescription medicine recommended to you by your dermatologist). Always ensure you follow up with a good sunscreen post use.
Salicylic Acid, while works effectively as a spot treatment and can help zap away your pimples and acne, however, it could dry away the skin and leave pigmentation marks.
If this is something you have noticed for your skin, I would recommend using it as a preventive measure and not for spot treatment – UNLESS it has been recommended by your dermatologist.
Salicylic Acid works best at pH of 3 to 4, above that it’s useful only as an anti-inflammatory agent. Salicylic Acid is effective at as low concentrations as 0.5%, however, for daily use or in OTC products the maximum concentration shouldn’t exceed over 2%. Above that, and you’re in the territory of professionals, and it is not wise to use higher concentrations without their oversight.
While Salicylic Acid is quite safe for us, and is a naturally derived ingredient, its overuse can leave an unpleasant experience. While daily usage is safe, you do not need to be exfoliating your skin on a daily basis. Starting off with using it 2 – 3 times a week and gradually moving it to every alternate night would be ideal.
When used more than required, it can over-exfoliate the skin, and even irritate and dry the skin. This can especially be an issue for those with very sensitive skin.
4. Lactic Acid
Another potent and popular AHA, which has very similar properties as that of Glycolic Acid but is much gentler given its larger molecular size.
Lactic acid is derived naturally from sour milk, but most cosmetic companies prefer to use synthetic derivations as they tend to be more stable. Apparently, Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk for precisely this reason!
5. Tartaric Acid
Another popular AHA, however, Tartaric Acid is not as well-researched with regards to its benefits for the skin as compared to Glycolic and Lactic Acid.
Tartaric acid is a naturally occurring organic acid found in many plants, including grapes and tamarinds and is one of the chief acids in wine. Tartaric acid has wonderful antioxidant properties, however, is not very stable.
In-Vitro (Laboratory studies) studies have shown that Tartaric Acid breaks down into derivatives called tartramides whose chemical structure is similar to our skin’s ceramides and have shown to successfully replace ceramides. However, it is unclear if the same benefit would occur when applied topically to our skin via skincare or cosmetic products.
6. Citric Acid
Citric Acid is another AHA, and does have exfoliating properties, however, this is only when it is used in higher concentrations (approx. > 20%).
The reason why you might see this on your ingredient list is because Citric Acid is generally used as a pH adjuster, to ensure a product formulation isn’t too alkaline.
Citric Acid has the potential to sensitize the skin, and patch testing a product which contains Citric Acid is highly recommended, especially those with sensitive skin types.
7. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
One of the most happening ingredient, one you’d find in one too many products is Hyaluronic Acid, and it’s salt form – Sodium Hyaluronate. If you haven’t heard about its benefits, do check out the “What’s on the Label – Hyaluronic Acid” blog which details about all the benefits of Hyaluronic Acid.
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is essentially hyaluronic acid attached to a polymer structure, that forms a Hyaluronic Acid mesh that sits on top (or within the top layers of your skin) and provides enhanced hydration. You’d have heard by now that Hyaluronic Acid can carry about 1,000 times its weight in water, well with this crosspolymer, you can multiply that with 5!
Apart from providing hydration, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, also helps reduce Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), and a recent study even showed that it reduced TEWL significantly more than other forms of Hyaluronic Acid.
8. Antioxidants
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit / Leaf Extract – A berry found in Australia is an antioxidant that is said to be three times more potent than blueberries. It contains actives such as polygodial that has potent anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, and anti-microbial properties. Studies have shown that the Tasmannia Extract can relieve itching and burning sensation to a great extent almost immediately (within 5 minutes).
Daucus Carota Sativa Extract – The extract from the wild carrot is known to have potent antioxidant properties as it contains phenolic compounds as well carotenoids (pro-vitamin A, that could be converted into Vitamin A). However, topical application of the wild carrot extract has been known to cause sensitivity and is also used as a perfuming agent. Always patch test before using.
My thoughts on the product
In my opinion, this is one of the best chemical exfoliants I have come across and leaves an instant glow on my skin. When used correctly, this can definitely work wonders for your skin.
As always let’s break this down into packaging, touch & feel, how-to-use, and changes I’ve noticed in the time frame that I’ve been using the product.
1. Packaging
Like most of TO packaging, the outer
packaging is a white cardboard box with information on the product, directions for usage, skin issues the product targets, the ingredients list, precautions and company information on it.
The product, also similar to many other TO products, comes in a frosted bottle along with a dropper. I’ve noticed that many of my TO products that come in a bottle with a dropper, the screw cap doesn’t close correctly – this constantly worries me as I don’t want my products getting exposed to air or moisture, which could potentially degrade the product.
I love the simplicity of TO’s packaging and colour schemes (white, black and grey), the product looks very elegant on your vanity, does a really good job and for the price point it’s at – is a steal!
2. Touch & Feel
The product is lightweight, however, is
slightly sticky to touch. The product spreads well and smoothly across the skin.
The product is beetroot red, and honestly, it was one of the few things that truly enticed me into buying this product.
The Ordinary products are fragrance free, and that is especially important in a product like this which already can be quite irritating for the skin. It has a prominent inherent fragrance, and smells of something sour. However, as this is a wash off product, the fragrance leaves once you wash it off.
Sometimes, I’ve seen the product foams a little, however, there’s it’s nothing to worry about. Tends to happen along my jawline, or if I go over an area a few times.
3. How-to-Use
The packaging of the product recommends to “Clean face and wait for skin to dry. Do not use on wet skin. Apply evenly across face and neck using fingertips, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for no more than 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Do not use on sensitive, peeling or compromised skin. Avoid the eye contour and contact with eyes both during application and rinse off. This low-viscosity solution is intended to be used as a masque. Do not leave on for longer than 10 minutes. It is not recommended to use more than twice per week. Contact of the product with the skin must be of limited frequency or duration. If irritation occurs, cease use and consult a physician. Use only as directed on unbroken skin. Patch testing prior to use is advised.”
This product contains high concentrations of AHAs, with Glycolic Acid being the very first ingredient, and it is imperative that the directions are followed to the T.
Your skin needs to be completely dry when you apply the peeling solution. I prefer to wash my face thoroughly first and wait for 10-15 mins till my skin is completely dry.
I apply this top-down, from my forehead to my neck and I wash it off in 7 mins as there will be some time between the applications and washing off.
The packaging also mentions a Sunburn Alert, and states, “The product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.”
This warning does show how potent and strong the product is, and though they mention that the product can be used up to 2 times a week, I prefer to use this once a week (especially given that I use other chemical exfoliants during the week).
Additionally, please use the product only at night to ensure you don’t accidently expose yourself to sunlight.
I would also recommend using a soothing and hydrating product post using this, something with centella asiatica or green tea could work well. Alternatively, using a cooling sheet mask could also work well.
Try to avoid using products with actives, especially Vitamin C, as it also has exfoliating properties and could damage your skin rather than help it.
4. Changes noticed over a week:
I have normal to combination skin (oily T-Zone), my skin doesn't breakout very often, but I do get very painful deep-seated pimples during my time of the month. My skin concerns are mostly unevenness of skin tone, dark spots/moles on my face - I lost count of how many of those I have, whiteheads on the nose, appearance of fine lines on my forehead and around my eyes, and a small degree of sensitivity. I do have a bit of melasma on the sides of my face. I also have dark circles that refuse to let go despite everything I do for them. My skin tolerates acids quite well, and I have not had any skin irritation or peeling even with higher concentrations of acids.
I use this product once a week for the last 18 weeks – Used it 16 times over the last 4.5 months.
The immediate result of using this product is an instant glow and the skin looks clear. This lasts for about 2-3 days and slowly subsides.
It is very important to keep in mind that during the first application, your skin will definitely sting (if you are not used to acids). This has 30% AHAs, and it will not be a calm and relaxing masking, but instead you’ll have to find ways to not think about the stinging on your face.
However, if it is painful and you’re having a burning sensation, wash off immediately.
Over time, your skin will build up tolerance, and after a few weeks you wouldn’t even be able to feel it (unless you have compromised skin – you shouldn’t even by applying this if that’s the case).
Given that this product has ingredients that can speed up the skin turnover rate, many people tend to purge once they start using the product. This is essentially clogged pores which were deeper within the layers of your skin all surfacing at once. It might seem like a breakout, but these were pimples you would have gotten sooner or later, and the acids just pushed them all up at one time. Please note, purging only happens in regions where you often breakout.
Given that I had been using both Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid before I started using this product, my skin did not purge.
5. Changes noticed over a month:
While exfoliating my skin was definitely one of the reasons I picked up this product, I wanted to find a way to deal with my melasma, uneven and dull skin near my mouth, and get rid of the few marks I have left over from the pimples I get.
Firstly coming to my melasma, I am and have been using Niacinamide for months as a part of my day routine, as well as using a product with Alpha Arbutin in it, both of which are ingredients that help with reducing pigmentation. AHAs can also help with this, however, it is a long drawn out process.
After about 6 – 7 uses of the peeling solution, I noticed that my melasma had lightened just the teeniest – tiniest bit, and I do attribute this to the mask because I’ve been using the other ingredients for a long time with no results.
I haven't seen significant benefit, and will need to use this product for much longer to treat deep pigmentation issues like melasma.
Regarding the dullness around my mouth and other spots, over the course of 4 months, I did not notice any significant difference.
One of the main plusses for me of the product is it’s ablity to partially reduce the blackheads I have on my nose. I have tried many products, and Salicylic Acid serums, but none of which truly helped reduce the blackheads and whiteheads on my nose. Consistent use of this has reduced my clogged pores in half. I have also been getting fewer pimples than I usually do since I’ve started using this.
Final Thoughts
Personally, I love this product, and honestly applying this on my skin makes me feel like I’m doing some serious skincare session.
The results are almost instant, and I love that my blackheads on my nose have reduced so drastically. Before I used to use pore strips, and honestly couldn’t go through the week without using it. I haven’t touched a pore strip in almost 5 months now (And I don’t know what to do with the ones I have).
I have to mention that this is a product you have to be extremely careful with and is not just for fun. The directions of use have to be followed to ensure the best and safest results for your skin.
There are many brands coming up with similar at home peeling solutions and I am open to giving them a try, however, unless I get a chemical peel done by my dermatologist, this is a product that I’m going to be keeping in my vanity for a long time.
Overall Rating: 5 / 5
This is suitable for all skin types with the exception of sensitive and very sensitive skin types.
Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist. The product review is my personal opinion on the product, and what I understand from articles available online. The overview on ingredients has been sourced from websites that specifically look to provide information on commonly used ingredients in skincare and make-up.
Wherever I have mentioned a specific fact or figure, these have been sourced from published Journals, Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary or INCI Decoder, and Journal sources listed on these websites. Information gathered from specific websites will be referenced as well.
I neither take credit for this information, nor can I guarantee the accuracy of these facts and figures and do not take responsibility for the same.
My main aim is to help people understand the various ingredients in their skincare and how those ingredients work, to help make intelligent purchase decisions with regards to skincare. If I have made any error or mistake, please do let me know, and we can work together to make the necessary changes.
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