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  • Writer's pictureA Brown Girl's Review

The Face Shop - Rice & Ceramide Moisturizing Emulsion and Moisturizing Cream


The Face Shop has been one of the popular Korean skincare brands in India, given it entered the market slightly earlier than the others, is reasonably priced compared to other Korean skincare brands and have a good online and offline presence in India.


This review covers, not one but two of their products from the popular Rice & Ceramide product line - The Rice & Ceramide Moisturizing Emulsion and The Rice & Ceramide Moisturizing Cream.


Let us dive into what are in these products that I absolutely love (despite all the reasons I shouldn't), who this product is best suited for, and an understanding of the company as well!


The Face Shop retails through over 69 stores (including affiliates such as Nykaa Luxe Stores) located across the country.

Rice & Ceramide Moisturizing Emulsion - INR 820 for 150 ml

Rice & Ceramide Moisturizing Cream - INR 920 for 50 ml

I prefer to buy through Nykaa. Nykaa always seems to have some offer or the other running, and you can make the best of it. I picked up the emulsion for INR 738, and also got another full size product free.

The moisturizing cream is generally Out-Of-Stock and I had to wait about 3 months before I got my hands on it! So if you're interested, keep this in your wish list and regularly check. It sells out pretty quickly on Nykaa.


The Face Shop - Natural Story


The Face Shop, founded in 2003 and headquartered in Seoul, South Korea is a skincare and cosmetics manufacturer, and currently retails only the skincare line in India. (Subsidiary of LG Household & Health Care)

With the tagline "Natural Story", the firm claims to create products from approximately 600 ingredients, sourced from across 25 countries and marry them with Korean technology to arrive at the final products we ultimately hold in our hands. With the core values of Naturalism, Variety and Value, you will see an entire line of products (from cleansing to moisturizing) championing a single key ingredient such as calendula, pomegranate, rice, chia seed, mango seed etc., available at pretty decent price points.


All their products are manufactured in South Korea and subsequently imported, include natural ingredients, are dermatologically tested, are formulated without parabens, tar colorant, mineral oils and talc, have recyclable packaging and are against animal testing.

Though the firm claims to be against animal testing, they do currently test on animals, and they are present in China where animal testing is a prerequisite for selling skincare and makeup products.


What's in my product?


Ingredients (Emulsion): Water, Glycerine, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Betain, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Panthenol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), 1,2-Hexanediol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Ceramide NP, Glycosphingolipids, Cyclohexasiloxane, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Dimethicone/​Vinyl Dimethicone Cross-polymer, Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-polymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Carbomer, Trisodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, ISOCETETH-25, ISOCETETH-10, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Parfum / Fragrance


Green - Yay!! Blue - Good/Fair Orange - Bleh! Red - Nope!


Ingredients (Cream): Water, Glycerine, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Betain, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Octyldodecyl Lactate, Diisostearyl Malate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Ceramide NP, Glycosphingolipids, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Sorbitan Olivate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, ISOCETETH-25, ISOCETETH-10, Dimthicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Cross-polymer, Polyacrylate-13, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Lecithin, Trisodium EDTA, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Ethylhexyglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum/Fragrance


Green - Yay!! Blue - Good/Fair Orange - Bleh! Red - Nope!


The ingredient list of both the products are similar, with most of the differences attributable to the difference in viscosity, i.e., the emulsion is slightly liquid, whereas the cream has a cream base.

An approx. of 40% of the ingredients used in the products are emollients, i.e., their primary job is to moisturize, calm & soothe and soften skin - so you cannot go very wrong with either of the products.

Of the long list of ingredients, about 25% of all the ingredients are texture enhancers (including silicone), which gives the product the texture and creaminess, helps in application, and gives it a smooth and silky feel on the skin.


While there are a number of ingredients on here that impact the product, I have highlighted important ingredients that are good, bad or ugly for our skin -


1. Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract & Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil


Rice has been a staple item in our diets since the beginning of time, and the same applies if not more so for the South East Asian countries. While nutritionists and dietitians are yet to make up their mind whether it is good or bad for us, there is no question about its beneficial properties when applied topically to the skin. A practice not very prominent in India, but has a very sound footing in South East Asian skincare and hair care routines, with the rice water being used from generations to brighten, lighten and moisturize skin, and condition and soften hair.


How it works? Rice extract and the bran oil contains skin goodies like Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid and Vitamin E, and is a rich source of Ferulic acid, Oryzanol and antioxidants. Let's breakdown how these are good for our skin :


  • Oleic Acid - A well researched ingredient, found in abundance in Olive Oil, has a number of benefits both for consumption and when applied on the skin. Oleic acid is thick and slightly heavy, and is great for moisturizing and nourishing the skin - especially dry skin. When combined with other lipids, it helps in calming the skin, and is useful for reducing signs of dryness and sensitivity.

  • Linoleic Acid - An important ingredient found naturally in our skin (our body cannot synthesize it, and has to be consumed), it helps build the structural foundation for ceramides, and plays a key role in building a healthy skin barrier. Linoleic Acid helps in lightening hyper-pigmentation as it has the property of blocking melanin producing cells (melanocytes), as well as quick turn over of melanin pigment from the top layer of skin.

  • Linolenic Acid - Another important essential fatty acid for the body to function, and is proven to improve inflammation and acne related skin issues. However, most of these benefits are seen when consumed and not on application. Topically applied the acid has spot fading abilities.

  • Vitamin E - A powerful antioxidant, with a host of benefits for the body as well as the skin, best known for getting rid of free radicals in the skin. Vitamin E is also known to reduce UV damage to the skin, and lighten spots caused due to exposure to the sun.

  • Ferulic Acid - An antioxidant, that works wonders when paired with unstable ingredients (especially Vitamin C) to enhance the stability of topical applications, and also has been proven to double the photo-protection abilities of a formula.

  • Oryzanol - A natural occurring component in plants with potent antioxidants properties and has also been seen to possess some natural sunscreen abilities.


2. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)


Shea Butter, a product that is considered to be a boon for dry skin is one of the most hyped natural butter used in skincare, and is known for its moisturizing and soothing effect on the skin.


How it works? Shea Butter is rich in antioxidants like Vitamins A, E & F, as well as skin-replenishing fatty acids (stearic and linoleic) which all together help to moisturize, regenerate and soothe the skin, as well as protect the skin from external environmental factors such as UV rays and wind.


3. Ceramide NP


Ceramides are lipids / fats that are found naturally in high concentrations in the top layer of the skin, and they make up for over 50% of the skin's composition and determine how your skin looks, feels and reacts. Ceramides are essentially like cement that helps hold the skin cells together, forming a layer that limits moisture loss (called Trans-epidermal Water Loss) and protects from environmental stress. Ceramides are also considered to be one of the best anti-aging ingredients available, and has been proven to reduce the effect of sun damage on the skin.

The ceramides used in skincare products are typically derived from plants, and especially wheat germ. However, these can be synthetically derived as well, and both the derivations have shown similar effects.


How it works? Skincare products containing ceramides will help reinforce your skin's natural barrier, increasing hydration and plumping and smoothing out skin, leading to firmer feeling skin and a reduction in visible fine lines and wrinkles.

Ceramides are safe to use with AHAs and BHAs, and in fact will actually improve the effectiveness as the exfoliants would clear the skin of dead skin and let the ceramides work with the new skin on top.

Ceramides have been proven to be more effective than most other potent anti-aging ingredients, specifically Vitamin A or Retinoids, which are considered to be one of the strongest anti-aging ingredients.


How safe is it? Ceramides, as mentioned above, are present naturally in the skin. The plant or synthetically derived ingredients used in skincare are not as beneficial as the ceramides already in our skin, but mimic similar structures and behaviours and have been proven to work in the same manner.


4. Silicone


Silicone are substances derived from silica, and have unique fluid properties giving it a great deal of slip (spreadability), can act as an emollient, application of which feels like silk on the skin, and is a good water binding agent. They essentially form a barrier between the skin and the air, helping to lock in moisture and any actives, while being resistant to both water and air. Medically, silicones have been proven to help heal wounds and reduce scarring.


Both the products, the emulsion and cream have 4 different types of silicone in them, and as listed above should ideally be good right? Well the answer is...Not really!

There are differences of opinion when it comes to if silicones are good for the skin or not. Let's look at the many arguments to avoid using silicone in skincare:

  • Superficial - Silicone deliver a pleasant feeling base, smooth and fill over any rough patches in the skin and locks in moisture. At that moment, skin might look and feel good, but wash your face and you wash away the benefits as well.

  • Harder to wash off - Silicones are water resistant, and silicone based products would not wash away easy. The oil-cleansing/double cleansing method was more or less started to tackle the issue of getting rid of silicones lodged in our skin. This could also lead to clogging of pores and might cause breakouts and acne.

  • Issues while layering products - If you like layering products (like I do), especially if silicone is in an early step like a serum, it can prevent water based products applied later on from being able to reach the skin.

  • Not eco-friendly - Silicones are bio-accumulative, meaning once you wash them off, they build up and contribute to the formation of sludge in water-bodies, and do not naturally break down or decompose.

I specifically do not have an issue with silicones, however, I'd like it more in my make-up rather than in my skincare. Also, these products have 4 different types of silicones in them, some of them quite high up on the list (meaning higher concentrations) which makes me question if the feel of the product is from emollients or the silicones.


How safe is it? Silicones are quite safe, and are medically used as well. They have the ability to ward off growth of unwanted bacteria on them, and have a wide array of medical uses.


Others

  • The moisturizing cream contains Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitant Olivate, when used together are known to form a natural emulsifier, which doubles up as an active with significant moisturizing, skin barrier repairing and soothening properties.

  • The products do contain Sodium Hyaluronate, a sodium form of Hyaluronic Acid that is well known for it's ability to attract and retain water 1000 times its size. However, this ingredient is almost at the fag end of the product list, probably in a lower concentration and might not make any difference if at all.

  • Both the products contains Phenoxyethanol, a preservative that does carry some risk of sensitizing the skin, i.e., might cause some irritation. This preservative is in most of your skin care products, so if you do not have an issue with your current skincare routine, there is nothing to worry about. However, if you do have issues with this ingredient, you might want to stay away. This is the ONLY reason I have marked the ingredient in Orange.

  • Both the products contain fragrances. Fragrances are generally a blend of volatile or fragrant plant based oils or synthetically derived oils that, to put it plainly, just smell good. They have absolutely no benefit to the skin whatsoever, and infact can cause irritation and is one of the main causes of contact allergy to skincare and cosmetics. A big No for those with sensitive skin.


My thoughts on the product


These products, despite some ingredients I'd truly have been happier if they were not included, are my favourites, and I continue to reach out to them over and over again. So let us break it down to the packaging, touch & feel, how-to-use and changes (if any) I've noticed in the time frame I've been using these products.


1. Packaging:


The Moisturizing Emulsion comes in a solid plastic bottle. I have many issues with this kind of

packaging, apart from the fact that I have no clue how this is going to be recycled, if at all!

  • The bottle has no pump of any sort, and nearly impossible to control the amount of product that comes out

  • The hard plastic bottle means I will not be able to use all the product in the bottle, squeezing it out is not an option. As a last ditch effort, if I were to try and cut open the bottle to get the remaining product out, it would be very difficult, unless I had some heavy tools

The Moisturizing Cream comes in a nice little glass jar, which I personally do not have any issue with. Some people, however, do prefer to have it in a pump rather than having to dip your fingers into the product multiple times which could potentially cause transfer of bacteria, or lead to spoilage of the product in extreme cases.


2. Touch & Feel:


The Moisturizing Emulsion is a light weight product, with the consistency somewhere between a serum and a lotion. It spreads very well, and you'd need about 2 shakes of the bottle to get enough product to apply to the entire face and neck.

The product is off white and milky to look at, and does have a distinct fragrance. I personally do LOVE how it smells, and it does give me a sensory experience - makes me feel all fancy and that I am doing an elaborate skincare routine, and makes me feel good later.

The product does absorb pretty decently onto the skin, however, there is definitely a thick and slightly tacky layer on top, that honestly doesn't budge. Now that can be good or bad depending on the situation. Given it is light weight and doesn't dissipate quickly, this moisturizer is almost PERFECT under make-up. However, say you're out and about in the sun - it is going to get very very warm!


The Moisturizing Cream is also light weight, however, in a nice creamy base. It is slightly thick, but does spread well, and a little bit of product goes a long way.

The product is white in colour, and smells exactly like the moisturizing emulsion.

The cream absorbs into the skin much better than the emulsion, and even though it too does form a layer on top, it is much lighter and doesn't have the tacky feeling like the emulsion. However, the formulation does feel a lot more heavier on the skin and applying it under make-up might be possible only for those with dry skin.




3. How-to-Use:


The general rule of thumb while using any skincare products is to go from thinnest to thickest in terms of consistency

The packaging on the emulsion recommends using after a toner, applying gently from the center outwards, whereas, for the cream it is recommended to be used as the final step of skincare (application in a similar manner). No mention if it is to be used in the day or the night or both.

Personally, I prefer using the emulsion in the day time over a serum and under SPF. It makes me feel hydrated, but doesn't give me an extremely heavy feel. Additionally, I use it under make-up as the slight tackiness helps keeping my make-up in place.

The moisturizing cream is my go to night time moisturizer, the heavier formulation helps keeping my skin hydrated through the night.


4. On using it for 1 month


I have normal to combination skin (oily T-Zone), my skin doesn't breakout very often but I do get very painful deep-seated pimples during my time of the month. My skin concerns are mostly unevenness of skin tone, dark spots/moles on my face - I lost count of how many of those I have, whiteheads on the nose, appearance of fine lines on my forehead and around my eyes, and a small degree of sensitivity.


Positives:


  • Come rain or shine, both of the products have not let my skin down, and have kept it hydrated and happy.

  • Given that I have an oily T-Zone, I constantly worry about products transforming my forehead into a reflector, and thankfully these do a good job at hydrating without making the skin look or feel oily or greasy.

  • The slight tackiness of the emulsion makes it a good moisturizer to apply underneath your make-up, without having to worry about make-up running if it gets too warm or hot outside.

  • The cream is a great night cream and helps keeping the skin hydrated through the night.


Negatives:


  • I have been using the emulsion for about the last 3 months and the cream for just over a month, and honestly I have seen no definitive change for the better (or worse) in that time frame. Given that rice water has so many benefits, and Ceramide, the main reason why I wanted to try these products out (I have other ceramide moisturizers that have done wonders to my skin) - I did hope to see some changes in my skin.


Final thoughts


The moisturizing emulsion and the moisturizing cream are products that I reach out to over and over again. However, the reason these are my go to products is because the tackiness of the emulsion works well under my make-up, and the cream works as a wonderful night cream when I'm not in the mood to apply a thick night cream if it's a warm or humid night. Another reason I pick them up is when I'm too lazy to do a full routine, the fragrances in these products do get me slightly peppy and make me feel like I'm taking care of my skin - which honestly is not a good thing!


Overall Rating: 3/5


Personally, I would recommend going for the moisturizing cream for dry skin types - this would definitely help keep the moisture locked in nice. Combine this with a good serum with hydrating actives underneath, and you should see good results.


For normal and combination skin types, the moisturizing emulsion would work well, however, it might get a little heavy during summer and monsoons. I would feel that it's an okay product to keep, but there are many products that are much better than this one.


In my personal opinion, both the products could get a little heavy for oily and acne-prone skin types, and would only recommend during winters or in cooler climates, and I'd ideally say these products a miss as there aren't any ingredients that could help with either of the issues.

 

Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist. The product review is my personal opinion on the product, and what I understand from articles available online. The description on ingredients has been sourced from websites that specifically look to provide information on commonly used ingredients in skincare and make-up. If I have mentioned anything incorrectly or wrong, please do reach out to me, and we can update the same.

Wherever I have mentioned a specific fact or figure, these have been sourced either from Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary or INCI Decoder, and Journal sources listed on these websites. I neither take credit for this information, nor can I guarantee the accuracy of these facts and figures and do not take responsibility for the same.


My main aim is to help people understand the various ingredients in their skincare and how those ingredients work, to help make intelligent purchase decisions with regards to skincare.

 

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