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  • Writer's pictureA Brown Girl's Review

Innisfree - Green Tea Seed Cream


Moisturizing, a skin care step that is KEY in any skincare routine, you can do the 10 – step Korean skincare routine or a normal CTM – Cleanser, Toner & Moisturizer, moisturizing is a must. I remember as a kid, watching my mother cleanse her face, comb and plait her hair, and finally moisturize not only her face but her palms and feet as well before sleeping. Watching her over the years, has imbibed in me the need to do a night routine no matter what – I have gotten home in the dead of the night and exhausted, but will never go to bed without washing off my make-up and moisturizing my face.


I had heard a lot about the Innisfree Green Tea Seed line, but it came with quite a hefty price tag and I wasn’t quite ready to spend so much on a small jar. After stalling for a few months and given that my moisturizers were quite heavy for summers, I placed the order for Innisfree Green Tea Seed Cream, and there has been no looking back since then and this has made its way to my top products.


*Suitable for all skin types, and will work best for Normal, Oily and Combination skin types.


Innisfree launched in India in 2013 and is available in their stores located in most cities throughout the country, as well online platforms like Nykaa.

The moisturizer retails for INR 1,750 for a 50 ml jar.

Nykaa as usual is where I go to buy most of my skincare and make-up, especially when its an expensive product, it’s best to wait for some offer or discount. I picked this up at full price, however, got sample sizes of their “Best-Loved Kit” which included the Green Tea Seed Serum (which I had been dying to try), the Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask 2X as well as their Bija Cica Balm EX, and 2 of their “It’s a Real Squeeze” sheet masks for free. (Did the math – I got products worth approx. INR 880 free – that’s more than half the price of the Green Tea Seed Cream)


Innisfree – Clean Island, where clean nature and healthy beauty coexist happily

Innisfree was launched in South Korea in 2000 as Korea’s 1st natural brand. As a brand, Innisfree is dedicated to share the benefits of nature from the pristine island of Jeju for healthy beauty while pursuing an eco-friendly and green life to preserve the balance of nature.

The brand is guided by promises to their customers to use reliable ingredients, pursue smart consumption, expand eco-friendly design and life, and provide experiences that satisfy all the senses.


They have 18 product lines with the latest one being the Cherry Blossom line for spring and summer time. Each product line has multiple products ranging from different types of cleansers to deep cream and night masks which champion the key ingredient which is exclusively sourced from Jeju. Each line also has distinctive packaging such dark green for the Green Tea line, pink for Cherry Blossom, purple for Orchids etc.

Another point to note is that their website provides information on over 10 ingredients that they use, where in Jeju it has been sourced from, how it has been sourced and its benefits.


I love their website, which is a stockpile of information on what the core values of Innisfree as a brand are, their timeline, how each of their ingredients are sourced and the back story of it and so much more – they have truly taken the step forward in setting a precedence of being open to their customers and providing all the information a customer might ever want to know.


Innisfree does walk the talk when it comes to the number of campaigns they’ve done to conserve the environment and local cultures in Korea, which include community trades to help empower villages, preservation of green forests on the hills of Jeju, Eco-handkerchief campaign (2010 onwards), Using Mug Cup Campaign, Empty Bottle Recycling Campaign (2003 onwards), Using Eco-Bag Campaign and Green Forest Campaign (2012 onwards). They have recycled over 12.5 Mn empty bottles (as of 2018) and planted over 14K trees (June 2019) as a part of their campaigns. I commend the work that they have been doing over the years to give back to the society and to nature.


Regarding whether Innisfree is cruelty free and vegan - well it is sort of a grey area. Innisfree’s largest stores are located in China, and as per their regulations, skincare products (sold in brick and mortar stores) need to be tested on animals. Innisfree claims that the China branch and Korea branch are two separate entities, while the products sold through the stores in China are not cruelty free, every other product sold globally as well as the online sales in China are cruelty free products.

There is also no clarity if Innisfree products are Vegan are not, majority of the ingredients used in the Green Tea Seed Cream are plant derived, however there are a few products that could be animal derived and there’s no clarity whether the plant or synthetic alternatives were used instead.


What’s in my product?

Ingredients: Water / Aqua / EAU, Propanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Glycerine, Stearyl Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Seed Oil, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, 1 ,2 Hexanediol, Octadecene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Parfum/Fragrance, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Di Sodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Dextrin, Tocopherol

Green - Yay!! Blue - Good/Fair Orange - Bleh! Red - Nope!

About 30% of the ingredients in this product are essentially moisturizing components, and there’s nothing not to love about it.

Another aspect I truly love is that there are three preservative of which 2 are naturally derived and all 3 are multi-purpose with moisturizing, skin-softening and moisture-binding properties as well.


Let’s try to breakdown the key ingredients -


1. Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil & Camellia Sinensis Extract


If you are reading this, I’m sure by now you’re well aware my love (or obsession) with Green Tea. I love it as a beverage and love it in my skincare. One of the most powerful and safe antioxidants known to mankind, with benefits that even include prevention of cancer – what’s not to love.

Green tea is known to help sun damaged skin, protect the skin from sunburn, reduce free radical damage, has anti-microbial properties (which can also support preservatives) and is anti-inflammatory. I’ve spoken in detail about the various benefits of Green Tea in a blog on the “What’s on the Label” segment – you can access it here.


Green Tea Seed Oil contains similar benefits as green tea extract, with the added benefit of acting as a humectant (attracts and retains moisture).

2. Propanediol


The second ingredient on the list is propanediol, which is naturally derived and sustainably produced from corn sugar and is Ecocert (Organic certification organization) approved. It is a natural alternative for propylene glycol (a by-product in oil refineries and a cheap substitute of glycerine).


Propanediol takes the definition of multi-tasker up not just a notch, but a few notches up the ladder. Its primary and main property is to act as a humectant, leaving the skin well hydrated, smooth and dewy. Additionally, it can also enhance the absorption of ingredients into the skin, helping the key ingredients work their magic.

Apart from that propanediol can also be used as a solvent (helping all the various ingredients mix well), help boost the preservative ability of other ingredients and can also impact the fragrance to a small extent.


Propanediol is quite safe to use and is well tolerated by most skin types and is not likely to cause any irritation. However, I would always recommend doing a patch test before using any product to ensure a product suits you.


3. Cholesterol


The ingredient that is usually linked with heart issues and generally gets a bad rap is one of the most important lipids in our body that is essential for a healthy mind, body and skin.

In our skin, cholesterol along with ceramides and fatty acids play a vital role in ensuring that our skin stays hydrated and strengthens the skin barrier. In fact, cholesterol makes up for almost 25% of the substances that hold our skin cells together.


When applied topically, cholesterol has emollient, stabilizing and water-binding properties that can help maintain the skin’s healthy appearance and feel. Cholesterol additionally also has skin restoring abilities, and consistent use of a product with this ingredient can help restore damaged skin barriers and further strengthen it.


4. Silicones


I do not personally have anything against silicones, and the use of 2 – 3 types of silicone in a formulation are perfectly fine in my opinion. Some silicones even have wound healing abilities, and if you want to understand more about silicones and why it gets a bad rap, you can check out my previous blog where I’ve spoken in depth about silicone here.


This formulation has three types of silicones used, and all three are in higher weights (2 of the top 6 ingredients are silicones). Let’s understand the silicones used in this formulation and how they are beneficial for the skin –


  • Methyl Trimethicone – The third ingredient on the list, a silicone that is extremely light and evaporates instead of getting absorbed into the skin, giving the sensation of a light product. Serves as an emollient and slip agent, helping the product spread better on the skin.

  • Stearyl Dimethicone – This fifth ingredient on the list and has skin-conditioning properties. This ingredient can help add texture to a product and acts as a slip agent giving a silky feel once applied on the skin.

  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane – The ninth ingredient on the list, a silicone that’s predominantly used as a texture enhancer and is used to soften the product’s texture. It also works well as a temporary wrinkle filler (like primers do). This derivative of silicone has larger molecules and most likely will not penetrate the skin or clog pores and forms a layer on top protecting the skin from the environment.


My issues with silicones and the main reason why I’ve listed it in orange is that 2 of the Top 6* ingredients are silicones, and I am not too comfortable with that. The silicones used are predominantly to soften the product formulation and provide it some texture and are non-comedogenic, yet I am slightly skeptical about this.


*Top 6 – This is a widely accepted practice where the top 6 ingredients are looked at to understand what kind of benefits can be expected from a product. Additionally, if a product claims to hero a certain ingredient, like aloe vera, you should find aloe vera in the top 6 ingredients and not somewhere down the list. However, this is not a blanket rule, some ingredients can be potent, and the weightage used depends on how much of the ingredient is required and the concentration it has been used in. For e.g., in this product, the green tea seed oil is the 8th ingredient – it is closer to the top means that the brand is looking to champion the ingredient, but other ingredients were required in higher quantities to stabilize the formulation as a whole to deliver the best benefits to the skin.


Others


  • Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract – Do I need to talk about this one? It’s basically cocoa butter and is known to help moisturize and nourish the skin. However, in this product, it’s so far down in the ingredient list, I think it has been added for its fragrance and not its moisturizing properties.

  • Tocopherol – Vitamin E, one of my favourite ingredients, is known to be a powerful antioxidant with photoprotective properties. This is the last ingredient on the list and I’m unsure if it would be able to deliver its benefits in this formulation. Could be incorporated for functional purposes as well.


My thoughts on the product


I am in love with everything about this product (except the price). I have harped on about how green tea is an integral part of my skincare routine, and this is one of those products I bank on for whenever I feel my skin needs a little bit of a fixer-upper. There have been times when my skin reacted or I had some redness that my ceramide creams could not fix, and I’d use this and in a few hours my skin would calm down. Let’s jump right into the product review, as usual let us break this down into packaging, touch & feel, how to use, changes noticed on using it for over a month.


1. Packaging


The outer packaging is a sturdy little

cardboard box in the colours of the line – white and dark green. Most of the information on the box is in Korean with the exception of the main product label, and one side of the box mentioning about the product, Directions for use, Ingredients and precautions to keep in mind. Manufacturing details are also provided in a label that has been stuck to another side of the box for import purposes by the Indian entity I presume.


The product comes in this cute little green jar with a dark green lid made of sturdy plastic. The packaging is simple, with the product details in the front, and a label on the back which mentions the directions for use, ingredients, precautions and manufacturing details.

What I dislike about the jar is how the jar slightly bulges out to make it look like it has more quantity than it actually does – It’s actually smaller inside and is as big as the mouth of the jar.

For those who have qualms about having to dip their fingers into the product multiple times, you might not be too happy with the product packaging. It is good to keep in mind that manufacturers and brands understand the nuances of jar products without dispensers, and the products are formulated to tolerate exposure to air, sunlight to an extent and any microbes that might cause spoilage. If you still have issues, do get a spatula and that’ll be the end of your troubles.


2. Touch & Feel


The moisturizer has a nice creamy texture that is super soft to touch and almost melts into your skin on application.

It is off white with the slightest hue of maybe a cream colour.

It has a delectable fragrance that I absolutely love – when I think of this scent the words green, calm and soothing come to mind for me. I prefer products that don’t include fragrances, however, if a brand were to incorporate fragrance, this is the route to go on.


A little goes a long way with this cream, and a few (3 – 4) small dots on your face and neck go a long way. You can layer it for a thicker coverage or go light for lesser – works well both ways.


On application there is a slightest sensation or this gentle tingle, that is more soothing than irritating, which last for a few seconds before fading away. The skin definitely feels more moisturized and supple after application, and you can feel a thin layer over the skin even after a few hours.



3. How-to-Use


The general rule of thumb while using any skincare product is to go from thinnest to thickest in terms of consistency


The directions on the packaging recommends, “Apply an appropriate amount over face and neck then gently smooth for better absorption”

They have also mentioned a usage order: Serum – Skin or Essence-in-Lotion – Eye Cream – Cream or Deep Cream; Special Care – Seed oil, Eye & Face ball.


I prefer to use this at night as a night cream, however, while sitting at home when my skin needs some TLC, this is the product I reach out to ALL THE TIME.

This can be combined with most products / key ingredients in your skin care routine and should not cause any unwanted reactions.


From an ingredient perspective, skin irritation is unlikely, however, always do a patch test before trying the product on the face. Additionally, the brand recommends to ‘Always recap after use’ and ‘Use as quickly as possible after opening’. The product is safe to use for 12 months once opened.


4. On using the product for over a month


I have normal to combination skin (oily T-Zone), my skin doesn't breakout very often, but I do get very painful deep-seated pimples during my time of the month. My skin concerns are mostly unevenness of skin tone, dark spots/moles on my face - I lost count of how many of those I have, whiteheads on the nose, appearance of fine lines on my forehead and around my eyes, and a small degree of sensitivity.


The packaging describes the Green Tea Seed Cream as “Soft cream delivers refreshing hydration with a blend of Jeju green tea extract and green tea seed oil to help replenish skin keeping its moisture level and give it a healthy-looking glow” – Well it does what it claims!

We always look for products that will transform our face and make it look amazing, this product doesn’t promise you anything but to do what a good moisturizer should help you do – hydrate the skin while calming and restoring the skin to its natural form.


The inclusion of green tea seed oil as well as green tea means that this additionally has anti-inflammatory properties that could potentially soothe and calm any irritated or sensitized skin. The clean ingredient list with naturally derived ingredients can help especially those with sensitive or sensitized skin to calm down.


My skin always looks and feels happy after I apply this, and even though its quite light on application continues to provide moisturization through the day / night.


Final Thoughts


I love products that incorporate green tea, but formulation matters, and I personally believe that Innisfree have hit the nail on the head for this one. I love how this product works for me, and I appreciate that this can be used across seasons and by most skin types.

This is a moisturizer I would buy over and over again, and is something I would always want to keep on my nightstand – when all else fails, cut back and go simple, and that’s when this truly shines for me.


At a product level this is personally a 5 / 5 for me, however, they do have added fragrances and it’s quite expensive and not pocket friendly at all. It worked out for me as I purchased it during a sale, however, even I would refrain from splurging on this if it weren’t for the freebies thrown in.


Overall Rating: 4 / 5


I would recommend this for all skin types – but do believe that it would work wonderfully well for oily and combination skin types


Dry skin types can benefit from using this product, however, it would depend on how dry your skin is, and you might have to apply thicker layers to truly benefit from this.


I personally believe that this product can be used by those with sensitive skin as well, however, some people do react to green tea and it would be better to patch test before purchasing and using this product.

 

Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist. The product review is my personal opinion on the product, and what I understand from articles available online. The overview on ingredients has been sourced from websites that specifically look to provide information on commonly used ingredients in skincare and make-up.

Wherever I have mentioned a specific fact or figure, these have been sourced from published Journals, Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary or INCI Decoder, and Journal sources listed on these websites. Information gathered from specific websites will be referenced as well.

I neither take credit for this information, nor can I guarantee the accuracy of these facts and figures and do not take responsibility for the same.

My main aim is to help people understand the various ingredients in their skincare and how those ingredients work, to help make intelligent purchase decisions with regards to skincare. If I have made any error or mistake, please do let me know, and we can work together to make the necessary changes.

 
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